When an oven stops baking but still broils, it’s confusing. The light turns on, the broiler gets hot, but the lower heating element does nothing. That gap between the functions usually points to one thing—an issue with the bake relay. This small electrical part sends power to the bake element. Without it working properly, the oven just won’t heat up in bake mode.
Let’s break down the signs, causes, and practical steps to confirm if the relay is the issue. We’ll also share extra checks and troubleshooting tips to keep your kitchen safe and working.
Signs the Bake Relay Might Be Failing
First, we look at the most obvious signs. When the broiler still works, the oven has power and the control board is alive. That narrows the failure to something that only affects the baking circuit. The relay for baking lives on the control board and clicks on when you start a baking cycle.
The most common symptom is no heat from the bottom element. Another clue is no relay “click” sound during bake. Sometimes, the oven may begin to heat slightly and then stop. That points to a relay struggling to stay closed.
Secondly, if the bake relay has failed completely, the element will stay cold even with a working control panel. Meanwhile, broil mode heats up quickly. That difference tells us the relay isn’t completing the circuit for baking, even though other parts are still powered.
Why Relays Break Down Over Time
Electric relays wear down from electrical stress. Over time, the metal contacts inside pit and carbonize. That causes resistance. Eventually, they stop making a solid connection and fail to send current to the element.
We often see this in homes where the oven sees daily use or runs long cycles. High amperage from the bake element puts more strain on the relay than broil mode. This means the bake relay is more likely to fail first.
In some ovens, high moisture from cooking can also seep into the control board area. That creates corrosion or arc marks. In rare cases, a power surge damages one relay while the others continue to work. All of these are worth checking before we replace any parts.
Testing the Bake Relay with a Multimeter
We usually start testing at the bake element, but once that checks out, we move on to the relay. First, disconnect the oven from power completely. Next, access the control board, usually found behind the back panel or under the top control panel.
The bake relay is one of the square components soldered onto the board. Using a multimeter set to continuity or resistance mode, test the two terminals leading out of the relay. When bake mode is activated, the circuit should close and allow voltage through.
If there is no continuity while bake mode is on, and the broiler relay still functions, the bake relay has likely failed. That’s a clear signal the board needs service or replacement. Depending on your experience, this may be the point where it’s best to contact a technician.
For complex issues involving control boards, many homeowners rely on professional appliance repair in Edmonton to avoid further electrical damage.
Confirming the Element Isn’t the Problem
Before touching the control board, we always check the baking element directly. It sits along the bottom of the oven cavity and should glow red when working. If it doesn’t heat up, it may be open or grounded.
Unplug the oven, then disconnect the element wires and test it with a multimeter. A healthy element will show low resistance (usually around 15 to 25 ohms). If it shows infinity or zero, it’s defective.
However, if the element tests fine, and there’s no voltage reaching its terminals when bake mode is active, the issue is upstream—most often the relay.
In this case, oven troubleshooting goes beyond surface parts. For more involved diagnostics like these, we usually guide customers toward a qualified oven repair technician in Edmonton who can safely work with high-voltage circuits.
When the Control Board Needs Replacement
If the relay is confirmed to be faulty and it’s soldered to the board, we have two options—replace the entire control board or desolder the relay and install a new one. Most homeowners choose the full board replacement. That avoids potential soldering mistakes.
New boards come programmed for your oven model. That makes installation more straightforward. After the new board goes in, the oven usually returns to normal operation. Bake, broil, and all other functions work again as designed.
However, before installing anything new, always verify that the problem isn’t a broken wire or bad connection. A failed wire can mimic a bad relay. We check for voltage at the control board output before calling the board faulty.
In situations where the oven shows symptoms across multiple functions, the board may not be worth saving. When that happens, we recommend full service. If you’re unsure about next steps, reach out using our appliance repair contact form in Edmonton and we’ll help assess the situation quickly.
Additional Checks That Are Often Overlooked
One hidden issue we sometimes see is a broken neutral wire in the terminal block. This can stop the bake element from receiving full voltage while the rest of the oven appears fine.
Another overlooked cause is a misaligned oven temperature sensor. If the sensor fails and falsely reports a high temp, the control board may shut off the bake relay to protect the unit. We test the sensor resistance (usually 1000 ohms at room temp) to rule that out.
Loose or corroded wire connectors at the relay terminals can also mimic a failed relay. Before replacing anything, we check every connector for burn marks or loose crimps.
Lastly, we inspect the control knob or keypad. In rare cases, the issue lies in the interface—not the relay. A failed touchpad or selector knob can send false signals or none at all, making it seem like the bake relay isn’t working.
Every oven model is different. Some include hidden diagnostics modes that help uncover hidden faults. These are often listed in the service manual stored behind the unit or online. Knowing how to enter diagnostic mode can save hours of trial and error.
FAQ
Why does only the broiler work but not the bake function?
Usually, that means the bake relay isn’t sending voltage to the bake element. The broil function uses a separate relay and path.
Can I replace the bake relay myself?
If it’s a plug-in style relay and you’re comfortable with electrical work, it’s possible. But most relays are soldered, requiring special tools and experience.
Will replacing the control board fix everything?
If the bake relay is the issue and no wires are damaged, a new board will usually restore full oven function.
Is the bake element still good if it doesn’t glow?
Not always. You need to test the element with a meter. If resistance is within range and no damage is visible, it’s likely still good.
How do I know when to call a professional?
If you’ve tested the element, checked connections, and confirmed voltage is missing at the bake terminals, a technician should check the board and wiring next.